Berlin
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Hip, energetic Berlin has grabbed the world’s attention with its exuberant urban life and vibrant arts scene. Gone are the days of drab Cold War Germany and a city divided by the Wall. In this cosmopolitan and affordable capital, neighborhoods like Mitte, Friedrichshain, Prenzlauer Berg, and Kreuzberg bustle with restaurants, cafés, and nightlife. Museums and sights such as the Pergamon on Museum Island, the Brandenburg Gate, and the Jewish Museum provide a window into Berlin’s rich history. Today the stitched-together heart of Germany beats fast.
Things to Do
Performing Arts
Berliner Ensemble
Deutsches Theater
English Theatre Berlin
Grips Theater
Maxim Gorki Theater
Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz
Volksbühne am Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
Other
48 Stunden Neukölln
Admiralspalast
Babylon
Bar Jeder Vernunft
Berlinale: International Film Festival
Berlinale: Internationale Filmfestspiele
Berliner Festspiele
Berliner Philharmonie
BKA–Berliner Kabarett Anstalt
Chamäleon Varieté
Christmas Markets
CineStar im Sony Center
Deutsche Oper Berlin
Freiluftkinos
Gay Pride Berlin
Grüner Salon
Hackesche Höfe Kino
Hebbel am Ufer Theater
International Berlin Beer Festival
Karneval der Kulturen
Komische Oper
Konzerthaus Berlin
Lange Nacht der Museen
Neuköllner Oper
Schiller Theater
Staatsoper Unter den Linden
Tanzfabrik
Tempodrom
Theater des Westens
Tipi am Kanzleramt
Wintergarten Varieté
Top Destinations
Charlottenburg
An important part of former West Berlin but now a western district of the united city, Charlottenburg has retained its old-world charm. Elegance is the keyword here. Whether you’re strolling and shopping around Savignyplatz or pausing for a refreshment at the LiteraturHaus, you’ll be impressed with the dignity of both the neighborhood’s architecture and its inhabitants. Kurfürstendamm (or Ku’damm, as the locals call it) is the central shopping mile, where you’ll find an international clientele browsing brand-name designers, or drinking coffee at sidewalk cafés.
Friedenau
Just south of Charlottenburg, Friedenau is a residential neighborhood, with quiet tree-lined streets and a handful of cafés.
Friedrichshain
The cobblestone streets of Friedrichshain, bustling with bars, cafés, and shops, give it a Greenwich Village feel. There's plenty to see here, including Karl-Marx-Allee, a long, monumental boulevard lined by grand Stalinist apartment buildings (conceived of as "palaces for the people" that would show the superiority of the Communist system over the capitalist one); the area's funky parks; the East Side Gallery; and lively Simon-Dach-Strasse. It’s cool, it’s hip, it’s historical. If you’re into street art, this is a good place to wander.
Grunewald
The lush Grunewald forest, where tony villas peep out between the trees, is in southwest Berlin. Nearby, you can swim in bucolic Schlachtensee Lake.
Kreuzberg
Hip Kreuzberg, stretching from the West Berlin side of the border crossing at Checkpoint Charlie all the way to the banks of the Spree next to Friedrichshain, is home base for much of Berlin’s famed nightclub scene and a great place to get a feel for young Berlin. A large Turkish population shares the residential streets with a variegated assortment of political radicals and bohemians of all nationalities. In the minds of most Berliners, it is split into two even smaller sections: Kreuzberg 61 is a little more upscale, and contains a variety of small and elegant shops and restaurants, while Kreuzberg 36 has stayed grittier, as exemplified by the garbage-strewn, drug-infested, but much-beloved Görlitzer Park. Oranienstrasse, the spine of life in the Kreuzberg 36 district, has mellowed from hard core to funky since reunification. When Kreuzberg literally had its back against the Wall, West German social outcasts, punks, and the radical left made this old working-class street their territory. Since the 1970s the population has also been largely Turkish, and many of yesterday's outsiders have turned into successful owners of shops and cafés. The most vibrant stretch is between Skalitzer Strasse and Oranienplatz. Use Bus M29 or the Görlitzer Bahnhof or Kottbusser Tor U-bahn stations to reach it.
Mitte
After the fall of the wall, Mitte, which had been in East Germany, once again became the geographic center of Berlin. The area comprises several minidistricts, each with its own distinctive history and flair. Alexanderplatz, home of the iconic TV Tower, was the center of East Berlin. With its Communist architecture, you can still get a feel for the GDR aesthetic here. The nearby Nikolaiviertel is part of the medieval heart of Berlin. The Scheunenviertel, part of the Spandauer Vorstadt, was home to many of the city’s Jewish citizens. Today, the narrow streets that saw so much tragedy house art galleries, increasingly excellent restaurants, and upscale shops popular with tourists. Treasures once split between East and West Berlin museums are reunited on Museuminsel, the stunning Museum Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bordering Tiergarten and the government district are the meticulously restored Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate), the unofficial symbol of the city, and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, whose design and scope engendered many debates.
The historic boulevard Unter den Linden proudly rolls out Prussian architecture and world-class museums—now the site of increased construction related to the extension of U-bahn U5 line, slated for completion in 2019. Its major cross street is Friedrichstrasse, revitalized in the mid-1990s with car showrooms (including Bentley, Bugatti, and Volkswagen) and upscale malls.
Neukolln
If you missed Prenzlauer Berg’s heyday, you can still get a good feel for its raw charm and creative flair if you head to ultrahip Neukölln. Just southeast of Kreuzberg below the Landwehrkanal, Neukölln was an impoverished, gritty West Berlin neighborhood until the hip crowd discovered it a few years ago. It's since been almost completely transformed. Makeshift bars-galleries brighten up semi-abandoned storefronts, and vintage café or breakfast spots put a new twist on old concepts. Everything has a salvaged feel, and the crowds are young and savvy. If you’re looking for nightlife, there are bars galore.
Oranienburg
In this little village a short drive north of Berlin, the Nazis built one of the first concentration camps (neighbors claimed not to notice what was happening there). After the war, the Soviets continued to use it. Only later did the GDR regime turn it into a memorial site. If you feel like you’ve covered all the main sites in Berlin, this is worth a day trip.
Potsdam
A trip to Berlin wouldn't be complete without paying a visit to Potsdam, known for its 18th-century baroque architecture, especially Sanssouci Park, the former residence of the Prussian royals. The town center offers historical landmarks, charming boutiques, and café-lined cobblestone streets. The bonus is that it's only a half-hour trip from Berlin.
Potsdam is the state capital of Brandenburg (the region surrounding Berlin), and although it was severely damaged by bombing during World War II, much of the city has been restored to its former glory and still retains the imperial character it accrued during the many years it served as a royal residence and garrison quarters. The city center has stately Prussian architecture as well as a charming Dutch quarter, while Sansoucci Park, the city's main tourist attraction and sometimes called the Versailles of Potsdam, is a short bus ride away. Just north of Sanssouci Park is Neuer Garten, where the Schloss Cecilienhof was the site of the Potsdam Conference in 1945. Both are home to manicured gardens, stunning architecture, lakes and fountains, and several palaces, galleries, and former royal buildings. An enthusiastic history buff could happily spend several days exploring the palaces and landmarks of Sanssouci Park and Neuer Garten, but considering that most of the palace interiors are quite similar, and that the city is quite compact and well connected with public transport, one day is generally sufficient for a visit.
Potsdam is on the Havel River, and its small harbor area showing off modern and vintage-style boats is a casting-off point for boat tours around the area or back to Berlin.
Potsdam also plays a central role in the history of film. The world’s first major movie studio opened in 1911 in Babelsberg, just east of Potsdam, and turned the area into a prewar Hollywood. Fritz Lang’s Metropolis and The Blue Angel with Marlene Dietrich were both filmed here, and many modern filmmakers continue to use the studios. The historic Filmmuseum Potsdam will interest film buffs.
Potsdamer Platz
The once-divided Berlin is rejoined at Potsdamer Platz, which now links Kreuzberg with the former East once again. Potsdamer Platz was Berlin's inner-city center and Europe's busiest plaza before World War II. Bombings and the Wall left this area a sprawling, desolate lot, where tourists in West Berlin could climb a wooden platform to peek into East Berlin's death strip. After the Wall fell, various international companies made a rush to build their German headquarters on this prime real estate. In the mid-1990s, Potsdamer Platz became Europe's largest construction site. Today's modern complexes of red sandstone, terra-cotta tiles, steel, and glass have made it a city within a city.
A few narrow streets cut between the hulking modern architecture, which includes two high-rise office towers owned by Daimler, one of which was designed by star architect Renzo Piano. The round atrium of the Sony Center comes closest to a traditional square used as a public meeting point. Farther down Potsdamer Strasse are the state museums and cultural institutes of the Kulturforum.
Prenzlauer Berg
Once a spot for edgy art spaces, squats, and all manner of alternative lifestyles, Prenzlauer Berg has morphed into an oasis of artisanal bakeries, cute kids' clothing stores (where the prices could knock your socks off), and genteel couples with baby strollers. That said, it’s a beautiful area, with gorgeous, perfectly renovated buildings shaded by giant plantain and chestnut trees. If you’re in the mood for an upscale, locally made snack and a nice stroll, this is the place to be. You'll find a denser concentration of locals and long-settled expats in Prenzlauer Berg than in other parts of the city like the Scheunenviertel.
Schoneberg
Long known as Berlin’s gay neighborhood, these days Schöneberg is yet another burgeoning hipster area, attracting artists and creative types and young families. You'll find many stylish shops and cafés in and around Nollendorfplatz, steps away from Winterfeldtplatz, where a weekly food and flea market takes place Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Tiergarten
The Tiergarten, a bucolic 630-acre park with lakes, meadows, and wide paths, is the "green heart" of Berlin. In the 17th century it served as the hunting grounds of the Great Elector (its name translates into "animal garden"). Now it's the Berliners' backyard for sunbathing and summer strolls.
The government district, Potsdamer Platz, and the embassy district ring the park from its eastern to southern edges. A leisurely walk from Zoo Station through the Tiergarten to the Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag takes about 90 minutes.
Treptow
Verdant, nearly suburban Treptow is best known for its park, but the canalside residential district of Alt-Treptow, with its ornate, century-old buildings, is also worth a stroll.
Wannsee
Most tourists come to leafy, upscale Wannsee to see the House of the Wannsee Conference, where the Third Reich’s top officials met to plan the "final solution." Beyond this dark historical site, however, there are parks, lakes, and islands to explore. Leave a day for a trip here, especially in warm weather: the Wannsee lake is a favorite spot for a summer dip.
Wedding
While much of Berlin has gentrified rapidly in recent years, Wedding, north of Mitte, is still an old-fashioned, working-class district. Because rents are still relatively low, it will probably be the next hot spot for artists and other creative types looking for cheap studios and work places. If you want to be on the cutting edge, ferret out an underground show or two in this ethnically diverse neighborhood.
For a historical perspective on the years of Berlin’s division, head to the excellent Berlin Wall Memorial Site. This illuminating museum (some of which is open-air) is located along one of the few remaining stretches of the wall, and chronicles the sorrows of the era.